This book is a sort of gateway book into the world of permaculture. With a brief description of the core principles of permaculture, you can get an idea of how to begin thinking the way a permaculturist would in the design of your garden/food forest. Hemenway lays out the basic ideas of permaculture without going into great detail… enough information to be useful, but not so much that you become bogged down in minutiae. Once he lays out the general ideas of the underlying theory, he proceeds to give real-life examples of how the ideas have worked in various locales.
Using permaculture principles in determining garden layout, harvest/storage of water and sunlight, plant biodiversity, a home garden can become less labor intensive and more productive. This book gives many useful ideas for making this happen in your own back yard.
I particularly loved the examples of garden layouts showing non-traditional designs. By using a keyhole gardening bed, you can minimize the space needed for the garden path and maximize growing space (while making the garden more interesting and appealing as well). The herb spiral is another idea that will add beauty and usefulness to the beds right outside the back door.
The theory of zones and how they impact the permaculture design is also discussed, with examples illustrating the ideas. He even shares a zone layout example for a typical 1/4 acre suburban lot that is highly productive.
From design of the space, he moves on to helping with building up the soil. I plan to use his sheet mulching system when setting up our gardens in New Mexico, and will no doubt be referring back to his book often when planning and laying out the garden there.
From plant recommendation, to orchard planning… from attracting helpful insects and birds to chicken tractors, the author puts forward many applications of permaculture principles you can implement at home. The book offers a wonderful appendix with excellent resources including plant suggestions for the various permaculture layers.
This book is a very excellent book to introduce the ideas of permaculture and sustainable food production. I highly recommend it, especially to those who are unfamiliar with permaculture principles. It’s easy to see why this book continues to be a best-seller.
The workshop is taking shape...There’s no doubt a lot of money to be saved by doing some or all of your home construction yourself. There are some simple ways of deciding how to sort that out. In some cases the requirements are governed by law. You may encounter the need for specific equipment, and finally there may be levels of expertise or physical abilities that make it impractical for doing the work yourself.
Building a house is a series of linked projects. Assuming you already own your land the project begins with research , learning all there is about the land, the type of home, construction materials, building codes and permitting procedures. From there it progresses to the design phase. The design phase encompasses everything from the house plans, the plot plan, the interconnection of all utilities, design of landscaping and any supporting infrastructure needed to prepare your homestead. The design phase never really ends. Changes are made up to, and in some cases, well after you move in. The more effort you put into the research and the design phases, the less problems and cost overruns you will encounter due to changes and oversights. You also have the permitting process. This requires lots of time and effort to get your well permit, septic permit, building permit, electricity run to the site, and cable/phone hook up.
The projects continue with excavation/site preparation, foundation work/masonry, , rough-in plumbing , framing, roofing, rough-in electrical , more plumbing, installation of HVAC system, , insulation, drywall installation, exterior finishing, , painting, flooring, bathroom/kitchen installation, finish plumbing , finish electrical, miscellaneous items, punch-out list (completion of all minor items needing touch-up/attention) and a final inspection . Each of these phases (and this is not a complete list) impacts the other. Some can be done concurrently, where others must be completely done before moving to the next phase. If errors are made in one phase, they will compound themselves with each subsequent phase until corrected. That costs time and money. The projects that I’ve highlighted in Blue above are the ones I will definitely do myself. The ones in Red will be subcontacted out. The ones in Black are undecided. As you can see from the list above, we should be able to save a significant amount on labor and project management fees.
The Law
Each state is different. In some portions of the state of New Mexico, a person, who is not a licensed contractor, can act as their own Owner-Builder. We are building in a region where you can perform your own plumbing work. Any electrical work requires that you be a licensed electrician. I suppose you could study and sit through the test and get a license, but there are a lot of aspects relating to electricity that are, in my opinion, worth allowing a professional to handle. One could also make the same argument for allowing a licensed plumber to do the work, but in my case I am going to do that work myself. Legally, in the county where I have submitted my application for my building permit, I am allowed to do everything except electrical work.
Equipment
Some jobs require a minimum of equipment to perform. Installing rolled insulation is one of those. You need to cut the rolls, you need a staple gun to secure them, and you need a ladder, or in some cases a small section of scaffolding to comfortably and safely reach the high spots. You will also need eye protection, respiratory equipment, and a set of coveralls to minimize the intrusion of the fiber material into your drawers! Other phases of the construction require a significant outlay of equipment. Some of the equipment can be purchased and retained for later use on the homestead, whereas others can be rented. Depending on how experienced you are with the equipment, the rental costs could exceed the cost of the tool itself if you keep it rented for 2 weeks! I am comfortable renting trenchers and small tractors, but anything else I plan on buying unless I do not see any utility in having that tool on the homestead. We plan to install a metal roof. Some of the bending and long cutting tools can be expensive; unless you plan on doing sheet metal work on the homestead they are not practical to buy. I’m not sure where you would rent those tools either. Based on tools, I do not plan on doing any of the metal roofing work myself. I will also leave the concrete pouring and finishing to a subcontractor. For most of the rest of the jobs, I have set aside an equipment budget to purchase or rent the hand and power tools needed. Then, after the homestead is built, I will have a suitable variety of practical tools for other projects. It’s also a nice excuse to buy more tools!
Sweat of your Brow and Know How
I’ve never built a house before. I’ve acted as a subcontractor on a home, closely supervised the construction of another, and lived in several other homes ranging from new construction to one built in 1893. We’ve moved 18 times over our 30 year marriage. My level of expertise is wide, but not deep. I have a lot to learn, and I have to gain a lot of experience to get it right so that I save money and build a safe house. Three things will help me here; research, reading and good friends who know what they are doing. The friend is not to ask to do the work, but to ask for advice and guidance. In our case we have such a friend and we are making it a business proposition as mentioned in an earlier thread. The combination of his advice, my back-work should result in victory. There are some things that I feel uncomfortable with. Roofing comes to mind. I know absolutely squat about metal roofing, and as mentioned before I do not have the tools to do a proper job. I’m planning to leave that up to a subcontractor. Stucco is another one of those areas that I consider an art. I could probably learn how to do it over time, but there is a reason why underlings apprentice for awhile before being turned loose. We’ll sub that out also. Things like painting, trim work, installing insulation, installing cabinets, sheet rock installation, tile work, I feel comfortable that with a little guidance and some basic tools, I can do those things myself. Framing is an area that I have not made up my mind on. I think I could frame a custom house, but I think it would take me 5 times as long and in the process I might waste the savings of not using a sub on mistakes and re-work. The home I’ve designed has a rather complex roof line, that if not done properly can be costly. Not to mention, a 10:12 pitch roof is tall and that is not something I can do myself. A final thought on framing is I can probably get the house framed and the roof dried in within 2 weeks before the heat of the NM summer kicks in if I subcontract that portion out. After that, nearly everything else will be done in the shade with a breeze blowing through the open walls.
I suppose time becomes the final aspect of deciding what to do yourself. In our case, I am retiring, so my “retirement job” will be building the house. Rather than paying a general contractor to do all of the coordination and scheduling, I will do that myself. If time is a factor and you do not have everyday free to work on the house, it will either take you much longer to finish an owner-builder home, or you will have to subcontract nearly everything out. As far as the time value of money; many of the Owner-Builder books discuss the saving as being in the 10-15% area for this alone. For a $200,000 house, that is as much as $30,000! When you add up the costs of all of the other labor, the amount subcontactors add on to projects for ordering and delivering the materials it could add another significant amount to the savings. The more you do yourself, the more you save. I estimate that the house will be built for a cost that is approximately 60-70% of a turn-key purchase. For a $200k house, that’s a savings of $60-80k.
During the design phase of the houseplans, the kitchen is always my domain. I pull out my grid paper, mechanical pencils, and, using standard cabinet sizes, draw out my plan. This takes many iterations and, even now, is subject to change.
I’m very flexible about particular cabinet sizes, depending on what I can buy for a very good price. As many people will do when beginning a project like this, I took my initial kitchen dimensions and started with booklets picked up for free from Home Depot. I think people have the idea that buying cabinets from Home Depot will be less expensive than buying them from a custom cabinet installer. I have to say that I am very skeptical that this is a good assumption, after my research. Looking at the cost of cabinets available from the “Ready to Assemble” (RTA) places indicates that there is a generous profit margin between materials cost and delivered, assembled cabinet prices.
Once I had my initial plan put together, I then called the Home Depot cabinet help line and got an actual quote for the cost of the cabinets. In my discussions with the very helpful lady on their cabinet design helpline, I learned that Kraftmaid (which I assumed was a less expensive line) was one of the most expensive… right up there with their Thomasville line. To my surprise, she informed me that the Martha Stewart line was one of the more affordable lines. I also learned that the Hampton Bay cabinets that are offered on their site, are not part of their design services (if you order those, you are on your own!).
Oh, my gosh! They were so very expensive compared to what I thought was a reasonable price. After choosing one of the least expensive designs on the Martha Stewart line, I submitted my plans by email to the lady at the helpline. It took nearly 2 weeks to get a quote back. The quotation (for kitchen cabinets alone — not any bath or laundry cabinetry) was $16,242, not including sales tax or shipping.
I quickly became very motivated to seek out other sources. I discovered something called RTA cabinets (ready-to-assemble). There are many websites that offer discounted cabinets in this form. The main difference it that, as the name implies, you have to assemble the cabinets from the components after they are delivered to you. You can still choose the type of materials, hinges, panels, drawer style, etc. that you would expect from any other cabinet source. Other than the fact that you had to do your own assembly, however, I cannot see much difference between this and the cabinets sold by Home Depot. For the additional work involved in assembling the cabinets yourself, you can save a really huge amount. Not only will many of the sites offer you free shipping for larger orders, but you pay no sales tax because it was purchased out of state.
Taking it one step further, if you are willing to choose cabinets from the selection of cabinets that are on clearance, you can save even more.
One of my favorite sites (so far) is cabinetgiant.com. For example, at their site, if you choose a “closeout” cabinet design, you’ll save over 50% off most of the cabinets compared to their regular price (which is already much less than Home Depot’s comparable assembled products). Choosing a style called Brindleton Maple, which is not on closeout, using my kitchen plan with upper and lower cabinets, crown molding, and all the finishing materials, my estimated total came to only $6,910.
courtesy of CabinetGiant.com
Using closeout cabinets in their Antique White style for Bathrooms and Laundry Room cabinets, the total came to only $2,112. Now, granted, I had to modify my design slightly when certain sizes were not available in the closeout pattern. But for less than half the price at Home Depot, I’d say the extra time is well worth it.
We are not yet to the point where I can push the button and order these cabinets, and the current closeout stock will most likely be depleted by the time we are ready for cabinet ordering. However, this exercise in estimating the expected cost and exploring the possibilities will serve us well when the time comes.
So, although I realize this isn’t for everyone… if you are pretty handy with assembling things using simple tools, and if you are building a homestead, or even just planning to remodel a kitchen or bath, consider ordering ready-to-assemble cabinets and save yourself some big bucks.
Postscript: After Patty’s suggestion, I got started learning SketchUp. I still have a long way to go, but here is a first draft at a new kitchen plan (plan view):
Ah... much better.
Google’s SketchUp is very nice, free to use and offers some nice tutorials. If you are interested in downloading it, you can find it here:
The first place to begin is the web. Most every locale has an official government web site which should contain most of the information you need to start your planning. For this article, I selected a town in Arizona, far away from where we are building to use as an example. I selected Yuma, Arizona. I simply entered the following search and started to explore; “Residential building permit Yuma, AZ”. The first hit took me directly to the government site which answered the basic questions for obtaining a residential building permit. I focused my search on information on the page relating to a permit for an Owner/Builder. After a bit of reading on the first page I found the following:
“For more information about building permits and fees, contact the City of Yuma Department of Community Development.”
A few additional clicks looking for Yuma Department of Community Development I was at the Building Safety Division, where several more questions were answered regarding required documentation, fees, and time required for obtaining a building permit. Within a few more minutes I found this quote,
“The department recommends that an Arizona licensed contractor be hired to coordinate all phases and types of construction for your project; in fact, most commercial construction requires a contractor.”
This led me to believe I could act as an owner builder, although it was not 100% clear. A quick call to the Community Development Office (928-373-5175) will confirm I was correct.
Establish a working relationship with the Clerks
The first call to the city or county offices is where you establish your first relationship with the workers. I always ask for a complete name and phone number so I can readily speak with the same person each time. In big city offices, this is not always possible, but it does save both parties a lot of time explaining who you are and what you are trying to do each and every time you call. After a few short conversations over the course of a few days you get to know your government contact and it will become easier each time to get your answers. I always collect several questions and call fewer times rather than calling several times with every single question. After a while you will be on a first name basis and get nearly all of your questions answered. A few general rules are:
Treat them in the same manner as you want to be treated. Don’t treat them like drones. You might be the 24th caller of the day asking the same, seemingly stupid, question.
Always be respectful and patient. You’ll get more with a kind word than a sharp condescending tongue. You reap what you sow.
Write everything down so you can remember the answers to questions. I sometimes find myself asking the same question twice because I could not remember the answer from the call 2 weeks ago.
Conduct the basic research before you call. You can many times get the answer you need by going to the city/county site for information. Don’t forget to look for the state building codes. Most of your answers about what is required are in the state codes. It will save you several phone calls.
Always remember, the person you peeve off may be the person performing your building inspection. You don’t have to bow and grovel, just treat them kindly.
Get most of the documentation right the first time
You will be required to submit what seems like a mountain of documentation. Make sure you have the correct forms, you have it all filled out correctly, and your details are legible and conform to the state codes. The more work you do up front, the easier it will be to get your permit. In doing so you will begin to build rapport with your city contact and they will probably be the person doing your inspection.
Again, I found a wealth of information on the web. I was able to copy and paste specifications, drawings, sectional drawings and reproduce much of what I needed from things I found on the web as shown below in the foundation sectional diagram.
The use of a computer floor plan program will be a big help as well. I found the Punch! Program to be very useful. I was able to submit about 80% of what the city needed directly from my home computer. None of my drawings were ¼” = 1’. I simply used the “print to fit page” function, made sure the detail was legible, and made annotated notes in the margins using the text mode of the program. I was surprised how easy the process really was.
Framing details from Punch! Software program
Be humble
Most of the folks in the government offices have been doing their work for many years and they are true professionals. In some cases they have over 25 years of experience. Yes, there are the consummate drones working in the office, but that is not the rule. Most know their work very well and have much of the information about codes, requirements, zoning and variances memorized. They will invariably make mistakes, so don’t stick it in their face. When I found discrepancies between what I was told and what was on the site I humbly directed a question to the person with whom I had established a relationship and asked for clarification. It worked every time. I did not care who was right, and I was not concerned about telling the clerk, “I told you so!” I simply wanted my documentation to be correct so I could start the construction project. In my case, the person with whom I worked answered every question I had. I did all of this over the phone while living in a different state 1300 miles from the construction project.
After all my preparations were complete, my father-in-law submitted my plans on my behalf. I was not even there. They were approved within 2 days without question. The foundation and plumbing inspector showed up at the site on separate visits and spent a total of 3 minutes on site. They knew me by name, they had high confidence based on the documentation I had submitted, and there was a greater level of trust based on the work I had done before I even called the office.
A short time after I had submitted my documentation, I got a phone call asking if I wanted to be on the city planning and zoning committee. I ascribe the reason they asked me to be on the board to the fact that I established a good working relationship with the clerks, I got most of my documentation right the first time, and I acted out of humility.
